Who’s Next?: Emerging Bridal Designers 

By Harriette Cole with Natalie Hippolyte

More than 300 designers presented collections during this season’s New York Luxury Bridal Fashion Week. Yes, there seemed to be an endless sea of white confections to behold. And, at times, they did all blend together. But when we paused for a moment and looked around, there was plenty to see that you might love. Three new designers stood out.

Bi Pham Made a Grand Entrance

Project Runway phenom Bi Pham lit up the runway at a former nightclub in New York City during New York Luxury Bridal Fashion Week. With his own fresh spin on what a wedding can look like, he did show a couple of classic brides complete with white lace dresses and veils. In fact, he featured one strapless lace ballgown with a billowing skirt on runway favorite Lyric, an African American woman who also happens to be a plus-size model. Curves were a rarity on the runway this season so when curvy girls did sashay down the catwalk, we took note.  

More interesting for this designer were the twists and turns he explored when considering who’s getting married today. Looking across gender and style, he paired a black sheer organza tuxedo shirt on legendary supermodel Alva Chinn with a satin pant and a mini-train. (He offered that same look in all-white, a stunning tailored alternative to a gown.) One model, wearing the most dramatic all-black number, seemed suited for the ball that one might imagine happening in that space later in the evening. But it’s worth noting that several designers have offered their own take on the black dress as a wedding day alternative. 

For Black Bride, the takeaway from Bi Pham is that there is no one way to dress for your big day anymore. How do you want to look? Figure that out. Then look around. There’s bound to be a designer who can fulfill your dream. And Bi Pham had a few looks for the avant-garde groom to round out his collection. 

A Dazzling Debut: Ugochi Iwuaba

What started as one-off designing for clients here and there has evolved into a full bridal line featuring red-carpet-worthy dresses for the bride who dares to be different. Ugochi Iwuaba grew up in Nigeria loving fashion and trying to recreate a suit her father had bought her as a child. She has long lived stateside, where her penchant for designing pushed her from dreaming to actually making clothes, and ultimately crafting custom gowns. 

In her debut ready-to-wear collection, she was inspired by a trip to a cathedral in Barcelona. Ugochi was mesmerized by the way that light danced off the ancient structure and was drawn to capture that same magic in her dresses. This debut collection features one dress with tiny mirrored pieces of crystal that reflect light along vertical panels. Another column gown is adorned with crystals on the neckline and hipline, with a removable tulle train. She has ball gowns and a flirty short white dress, feathers covering a skirt with a chocolate illusion on the back for a brown-skinned bride, and even a modest bride with a full opaque sleeve. 

Paulette Von Cleghorn– A New Start

How does an industry call a legend emerging? In Paulette von Cleghorn’s case, it is done with a bit of ecstasy. For more than a dozen years, Cleghorn has held the reins at the design house of Japanese icon Yumi Katsura. Cleghorn worked alongside the groundbreaking designer as she continued her craft up until her death at age 94 in 2024. As principal designer, she has continued to lead the brand in offering sumptuous bridal gowns and eveningwear to an international market.

This year is different. This daughter of Jamaican immigrants seized the opportunity to design an eponymous collection. The question for her was: what does her brand stand for? Out of her contemplation came some of the freshest ideas this season. The standout for me remains the strapless leather column gown. Its subtle elegance winks as this bride enters the room. Far more dramatic is the voluminous opera coat that she offers in white, black, and a pale blue. Put that on, and all eyes are on you! 

Paulette explained that for Yumi she has to honor the iconic sensibility that has been in place for decades. For her, the slate was blank, and she could do anything her heart desired. That meant she could play with color, featuring a rich blue print. She featured body-hugging gowns with flirty trains and simple, sleek fabrics. Her collection included a dramatic black lace gown complete with a veil, giving a strong Spanish feel. 

For Black Brides, the black dress that seems to be popping up a lot can work for a woman who is bold enough to walk down the aisle in black, but also for someone with multiple wedding weekend events. Walking into any room in a black gown requires a double take. 

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