The Original Visionaries

In 1968, Jonathan Blount, Cecil Hollingsworth, Edward Lewis and Clarence O. Smith established Essence Communications, Inc. Since then, the publication birthed from that entity has served as a constant barometer of the state of Black America. As ESSENCE magazine was created for and dedicated to Black women, the intentionality behind its imagery felt refreshing and relevant. The cultural power of showing us in all our authentic glory reached individuals who had yearned for a publication that spoke to them. When it came specifically to Black fashion history, the magazine featured >Tracee Ellis Ross, Iman and Tyra Banks on its covers. Before diversity became a buzzword, ESSENCE was a home for insightful and accessible stories that showed our fashion range. 

ESSENCE was created during a moment that felt ripe for change. In the early 1970s, Black America was at a crossroads. On the heels of the Civil Rights Movement, the Black Power political aesthetic had forced its way from the streets and into households, with good reason. Cultural representation was monolithic during this period—almost to a point where it could be described as exclusionary. Against this backdrop, Blount, Hollingsworth, Lewis and Smith decided to take action on remedying the lack of publications in America that addressed Black women and their plight. They understood that Black women’s experiences, life src="https://www.essence.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/SVI-10.jpg" alt="The Original Visionaries" width="400" height="500" />Photo Credit: ESSENCE

The publication’s initial editorial leadership included Gordon Parks as Editorial Director and Ruth Ross as the founding Editor-in-Chief; the latter’s tenure lasted one year. Parks, a lauded photographer, filmmaker and writer, stayed for three years. The pioneering figure, Marcia Ann Gillespie—who served as Editor-in-Chief from 1971 to 1980—was one of the women who gave ESSENCE its editorial identity and core. The legendary Susan L. Taylor, who joined the magazine as Beauty Editor in 1970, assumed the Editor-in-Chief role in 1981 and went on to be Editorial Director until 2008. Taylor was pivotal in advancing the mission not only to celebrate and empower Black women, but to make sure our beauty andsrc="https://www.essence.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/SVI-3.jpg" alt="The Original Visionaries" width="400" height="500" />Model poses in September 2023 issue. Photo Credit: ESSENCE

Our September 2000 fashion issue, featuring Sudanese beauty Alek Wek, is considered by many to be a classic—as well as a win for darker-skinned women. Wek had been the first African model on the cover of Elle, in 1997. “There is still a very beautiful, delicate experience that ESSENCE provides the outside world, and it’s not for everyone,” reflects Rachel Hislop, former Editor-in-Chief of Okayplayer and OkayAfrica. “Blackness isn’t a monolith. Black womanhood is not a monolith. We know that. But for the people who ESSENCE is for, I think that there is still a reverence.” 

Over a video call, Hislop expresses that after being introduced to the magazine in the 1990s, she further embraced it while in college. Whenever she got her hands on an issue, she says, it reminded her of how significant Black publications were. “We had Jet, we had the Ebony, we had Honey,” she says. “These places existed in the same realm. But the fact that ESSENCE has endured is a testament to its adaptability, its service to women and its ability to expand its mission, even beyond the pages.” 

From the beginning, the publication positioned itself strategically as a fashion and beauty magazine. Simultaneously, it has served as an institution presenting an intimate look at our families, social justice efforts, politics, the entertainment industry and Black communities throughout our nation—through emotionally layered and hard-hitting stories. The goal was for the publication to serve as a cultural touchstone, reflecting the many facets of our lives. Included were significant fashion narratives that unfolded on the magazine’s own pages. 

One of our favorite shoots highlighted beloved singer—and now fashion and beauty mogul—Rihanna, captured by celebrity photographer Robert Maxwell. ESSENCE had previously shot Rihanna in her native Barbados, in June 2007. Known for herdecoding="async" src="https://www.essence.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/SVI-9.jpg" alt="The Original Visionaries" width="400" height="500" />Rihanna in September 2008 issue. Photo Credit: ESSENCE

Agnes Cammock, who served as ESSENCE’s Fashion Director for three years beginning in 2006,decoding="async" src="https://www.essence.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/SVI-14.jpg" alt="The Original Visionaries" width="400" height="525" />Erykah Badu covers ESSENCE August 2015 issue. Photo Credit: ESSENCE

When styling Badu, Thorpe explains, she allowed the artist to be herself. One shot had the singer in a vibrant Desigual sweater with her own rings paired with jewelry by Dannijo and Stella & Dot. “She was loving the jewelry I had, but she also had amazing jewelry,” Thorpe recalls. Another image featured Badu in a Cynthia Rowley dress, emblazoned with yellow flower details, alongside a giraffe. On the cover, the star wore patterned alice + olivia by Stacey Bendet trousers, her own hat, a cuff by Alexis Bittar and feathers from Mordecai, a designer Thorpe regularly worked with at the time. The creative decision to shoot in Africa highlighted the magazine’s goal of providing a global perspective.  

Brimming with self-confidence and the star’s adventurous aura, Badu’s cover reflects a broader shift that is currently happening: approaching fashion from a global standpoint. This moment stripped away the industry’s prejudices about African countries and, instead, highlighted the beauty, drama and versatility of the Mother Continent in a pivotal way. 

Along its journey, ESSENCE has also risen to the occasion in how it has showcased Black designs. Indeed, a huge part of the magazine’s legacy has been legitimizing Black design talent. When innovative designer Patrick Kelly covered our 19th anniversary issue in May 1989 (along with model Kimi), it was a sign of our commitment to centering our talented creatives. We again paid homage to Kelly in our September/October 2023 fashion issue, which focused on actress Keke Palmer as designer Sergio Hudson’s muse. More recently, in the cover story of last year’s March/April issue, Beyoncé wore an exquisite metal and floral bustier by Olivier Rousteing. Designs by LaQuan Smith were worn by tennis titan Serena Williams for the November/December 2024 cover shoot, for which Jan-Michael Quammie served as the stylist. Track star Sha’Carri Richardson rocked Rachel Scott’s CFDA award–winning brand Diotima on the cover of our January/February 2025 issue,decoding="async" src="https://www.essence.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/SVI-17.jpg" alt="The Original Visionaries" width="400" height="525" />Photo Credit: ESSENCE

“I’ve experienced firsthand how ESSENCE doesn’t just cover designers—it champions us, creating this beautiful ripple effect that connects our work to the very women we design for,” states Felisha Noel, the force behind the fashion label Fe Noel. “ESSENCE has been more than just a magazine. It’s been a mirror, a lighthouse and a canvas for Black women like me who needed to see ourselves reflected.” 

In a world where digital platforms now reign supreme, the publication has had to evolve into covering fashion as it happens, in real time. In addition to covering the arrivals at various awards shows, we’re also on the red carpet at the Met Gala. While the magazine is still the flagship, a mix of daily breaking news stories, live social media posts via Instagram, and on-the-ground reporting alongside top-tier culture features keeps the ESSENCE brand relevant in a swiftly changing media landscape. Noteworthy accomplishments include the appearance of actress Zendaya on the digital cover of ESSENCE’s 50th anniversary issue in 2020, spearheaded by image architect Law Roach. 

The enduring significance of ESSENCE, due to its longstanding fashion documentation and editorial creation over five decades, is clear. Not only does the magazine continue to shape narratives surrounding Blackness, but it sets trends in the worlds ofrel="tag">Erykah Badu Rihanna Zendaya

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