Ethiopia: Traveling Through Timeless Tigray Where History Is Everywhere

By Mohammed Nurhussein

Photos: Wikimedia Commons

Traveling in Tigray by car from Mekelle, the capital to the historic town of Adwa, one is struck by the diversity of the topography along its 180-km stretch. Seeing the endless mountains of various sizes, shapes and hues, mounds of hay dotting the sloping mountainside farms indicating recent harvest, the tough sinewy Tegaru (people of Tigray), men, women and children, treading the treacherous mountain trails with ease as their forebears may have done for millennia, one cannot help but marvel and reflect on the timelessness of the land and its people.

Tigray is often referred to as the cradle of Abyssinian—and later Ethiopian—civilization. Its history stretches back into early antiquity. The region was home to the Daamat (D’mt) civilization from around 6000 to 1000 BCE, although some sources suggest dates as early as 10,000 BCE. The kingdom’s capital was Yeeha, some 10 km outside Adwa. The people of that period are credited with introducing farming and irrigation methods, and they may have been excellent masons as well. A well-preserved wall of the Temple of the Moon can still be seen in Yeeha, serving as testimony to their masonry and sophistication. Currently, a German Ethiopian archaeological dig is uncovering an entire city nearby that may have been buried perhaps because of a major natural catastrophe.

With the decline of the D’mt kingdom beginning from 1000 BCE, a new power emerged—the Axumite (Abyssinian) Kingdom. Its capital was at Axum, and at its peak around the fourth century CE, it was a major maritime nation controlling the sea lanes of the Red Sea. The Axumite Kingdom was one of the four great powers of its time, alongside the Roman, Persian, and Chinese empires. It had its own Ge’ez script, calendar, and coins. Tigray and the highlands of present-day Eritrea formed the core of the Axumite empire.

Timeless Tigray where footprints of the march of time and history are everywhere.

Tigray also stands as an enduring crossroads for the three major Abrahamic faiths, with each leaving a distinct mark on its history. The region’s legacy of religious diversity began during the Axumite Kingdom, where a vibrant Jewish community thrived before the rise of Christianity in the early fourth century CE. According to historical records, Abyssinia is widely recognized as the earliest Christian state, a status it achieved when King Ezana embraced Christianity and declared it the official state religion. This pivotal moment helped shape the spiritual landscape of Tigray.

The tradition of hospitality to the stranger became especially significant two centuries later, when the emergence of Islam brought new challenges and opportunities for interfaith relations. As Prophet Mohammed (PBUH) began spreading his message of monotheism in polytheistic Mecca, his followers faced severe persecution from the city’s powerful rulers. Recognizing their plight, the Prophet advised his disciples to seek refuge in Abyssinia, where a Christian king was known for his compassion and fairness. In 613 CE, the first group of sixteen disciples (the Sahabah) arrived in Abyssinia, followed by a larger contingent in 615 CE (Ibn Ishaq). The king welcomed them warmly, granting them the freedom to worship without fear. Scholars note that the practice of Islam in Abyssinia predates its open practice in Mecca or Medina, underscoring the region’s role as a sanctuary for those facing religious oppression.

The Abyssinian king’s decision to protect these refugees—despite their different appearance, language, and beliefs—established a principle of hospitality and refugee protection more than fifteen centuries before the United Nations formulated the 1951 Refugee Convention. His actions serve as a powerful lesson, especially in our current era marked by ‘othering’ and widespread xenophobia, where many nations turn away refugees, often with tragic consequences.

Timeless Tigray, where the footprints of history and the march of faith remain visible at every turn, challenges us to reflect: What lessons can modern societies learn from this ancient tradition of hospitality and protection.

More on the Mountains of Tigray

As the journey continues, the landscape unfurls into a spectacle of solid rock formations—some rising vertically like towers, others stretching out in broad, layered arrays of limestone and brick-hued stone—each sculpted by natural forces over millennia. The visual majesty of these formations is matched by the sense of awe they inspire, reminding every traveler of the deep interplay between nature’s artistry and the steadfastness of those who call these lands home. Recently, rock-hewn churches were discovered deep in the bowels of the rocky Gere Alta mountains. Built in the early days of Christianity—6 to 7 centuries before Lalibela—these structures testify to the engineering feats of ancient Tegaru. The walls inside these churches display fresh-looking frescoes in bold natural colors.

The mountains of Adwa

Soloda towers over Adwa, standing guard over the people and protecting them as it has done for centuries. That is why the people of Adwa feel a mythical, spiritual connection to the mountain, which is beloved by all.

The grandeur of Soloda and its neighboring peaks of Semayata, Ghelila and Abba Gherima not only shapes the skyline of Adwa but also serves as a living monument to the region’s enduring spirit, their ancient rock faces bearing silent witness to generations of resilience and triumph. The battle of Adwa was fought here against the large Italian colonial army and won decisively in 1896, a historic victory for Ethiopia and Africa and an inspiration to Pan Africanism and liberation.

Current Challenges: Tigray’s Struggle for Survival

Timeless Tigray now faces perhaps its most profound existential crisis since its long and storied history. During the genocidal war on Tigray that raged between 2020 and 2022, the region was subjected to a conflict declared by its own federal government, which was supported by foreign forces from Eritrea and Somalia as well as militias from neighboring regional states. Despite the overwhelming superiority in personnel and military resources held by the invading forces, the people of Tigray managed to withstand the assault and fought the aggressors to a stalemate over the course of two grueling years.

This determined resistance culminated in the signing of the Cessation of Hostilities agreement in Pretoria, an accord brokered by the African Union and the United States. However, the toll of the conflict was immense. The war was described as the deadliest of the 21st century (Paez, Globe and Mail), with casualty estimates ranging from 600,000 to a million, highlighting the vast devastation experienced by Tigray.

In the aftermath, it was stipulated that those responsible for war crimes and crimes against humanity would be held accountable, and nearly a million internally displaced people were to be returned to their homes. Survivors of brutal gender-based violence—over a quarter million, according to the careful documentation of the Commission of Inquiry on Tigray Genocide (CITG)—were promised justice and remain in desperate need of support and redress. Yet, none of these provisions have been implemented.

Contrary to hopes for recovery following the Cessation of Hostilities agreement, the Abiy government has continued to impose punitive measures on Tigray, deepening the region’s humanitarian crisis. The partial embargo—enforced through military checkpoints and bureaucratic restrictions—has severely limited the delivery of essential fuel supplies, causing transport and agricultural activities to grind to a near halt.

Further compounding the crisis, the government has systematically withheld salaries from civil servants and public sector workers in Tigray intermittently since the onset of the conflict. In addition, the government has blocked the bank accounts of EFFORT, a major conglomerate comprising dozens of factories and businesses that are central to Tigray’s economic stability. This financial stranglehold has not only paralyzed business operations but also prevented thousands of employees from accessing their wages and savings.

The repercussions of these coordinated actions are starkly visible in the plight of internally displaced people (IDPs). The latest humanitarian assessments indicate a sharp increase in mortality rates in IDP camps, with starvation and preventable diseases claiming more lives each week. For example, the December 22, 2025, Addis Standard highlighted that approximately 1,700 IDPs at the Hitsat center are in critical condition due to severe hunger and lack of medical care

Despite these hardships, the spirit of Tigray remains unbroken. Transitional moments of despair are met with resilience, as communities draw on their inherited resourcefulness and entrepreneurial drive. Families pool resources, support one another, and find innovative ways to keep businesses and farms running under extraordinary constraints. It is this determination—rooted in a tradition of perseverance and solidarity—that allows Tegaru to confront adversity with hope. Many believe that, through continued unity and unwavering resolve, Tigray will emerge from this crisis stronger and more self-reliant, and wiser, learning hard lessons about their relationship with the broader Ethiopian community, some of whom played cheerleaders to the genocidaires.

Mohammed A. Nurhussein MD