Travel Guide: 48 hours in Geneva, Switzerland

Geneva is a very walkable city with wonderful light, its buildings reflected in the mirrored surface of Lac Léman. The Rhone flows serenely out of the lake and divides the community into Right and Left banks. You can pass from side to side on a network of bridges, but start your trip with a short boat ride on one of the historic Mouettes genevoises (Geneva seagulls). 

Geneva riverbank © B.Watts

These yellow water shuttles have been crossing Geneva harbour since 1897 and sail all year round. The fleet includes three vintage wooden craft alongside more modern vessels, including two electric-solar boats. Like all transport in Switzerland, these ferries are punctual with reliable schedules. Time matters.

A deep horological heritage

Geneva has been shaped into the opulent cosmopolitan destination it is today by the clock and watch industry. Precision craftsmanship has been passed down from generation to generation alongside exquisite visual flair. There’s no better place to find out about this history in high-end horology than at the Patek Philippe Museum, located in a restored Art Deco building. Here you can spend the morning journeying through five centuries of watchmaking.

There are Patek Philippe designs on display, of course – a funky 1957 mosaic clock with electric micromotor is a colourful piece – but also other spectacular brands. Les Astres (The Stars) pendant watch has a beautiful movement made in London by Abraham Beckner in the 1650s. 

Harry Styles loves his Cartier Tank.

Today, the luxury watch sector is booming, and Switzerland has 95% of the market, with labels such as Rolex, Vacheron Constantin, Frederique Constant and Cartier all produced in Geneva. (Though Cartier is a French company, its watches are Swiss Made.) Harry Styles sports the 1917 classic Tank Louis Cartier design with an oblong face and Roman numerals. Rihanna favours a vintage 18k yellow gold Rolex Day-Date with a champagne dial.

Initium © B.Watts

After a leisurely lunch, immerse yourself in a hands-on half-day Initium Watchmaking Workshop. Here, with the expert assistance of the Master Watchmaker, you can create your own custom watch (from £2,425). You select the movement, case, dial, hands and bracelet of your choice and assemble it with a tiny screwdriver and tweezers in hand. It’s a thrill to see the beating heart of your bespoke timepiece come to life. Then, whenever anyone admires your watch, you can say, “Thanks, I made it myself”.

Saint-Pierre Cathedral’s underground secrets

The next day, explore Geneva’s ancient past before some sweet treats. The city has always commanded a strategic position for trade routes, bordered by the Alps and the Jura mountains. At the highest point of the Old Town, there are extensive archaeological remains in an underground museum beneath Saint-Pierre Cathedral, revealing over 2,000 years of history. The powerful Celtic Allobroge warrior tribe occupied the hills of Geneva in the 2nd century BC, preceding Roman rule and Julius Caesar’s arrival in 58 BC.

In the afternoon, chocoholics will love the Choco Pass – it’s a delicious way to explore more of the city. Swiss chocolate, made from Alpine milk, is renowned for its creamy texture. With the Choco Pass Discovery (£37) voucher, you visit selected partner stores – Sweetzerland, Favarger, Zeller, La Bonbonnière and more – to claim a gift bag of chocolate from your chosen five.

A melted chocolate dream class

At La Bonbonnière, you can also whip up your own Swiss chocolate creation in a L’Ecole du Chocolat workshop. (From £47 per person.)  As a chocolate apprentice, in an apron and chef’s hat – which you get to keep – you’ll learn how to manage and sculpt melted chocolate with the help of a team member from this renowned artisanal chocolatier. A warmed palette knife is a magic tool.  One option is to make your own chocolate clock, which seems like a timely idea.

Where to eat

On Boulevard James-Fazy, Coffee Up is a new cosy café with vintage style, open for breakfast (homemade granola bowl £11) and lunch. Dedicated to watchmaking, their motto is ‘Sip slowly, time will wait’.

La Coupole café-restaurant has a lively atmosphere. A generous serving of fillets of fresh lake perch with lemon butter and French fries (£46) includes the price of a starter.

The Breitling Kitchen, on the Quai des Bergues, has outside tables available along the sunny riverside promenade to eat your shrimp and avocado brioche (£24).

Le Lyrique first opened in 1881 next to Geneva’s Grand Theatre. The three-course lunch menu (£40) of octopus salad, rigatoni with peas and cuttlefish sauce, followed by fresh fruit, is served in an elegant setting.

Le Lyrique © B.Watts

For a special dinner, F.P.Journe Le Restaurant is a collaboration between Michelin–starred chef Dominique Gauthier and artist-horloger François-Paul Journe. A Signature Dish to enjoy alone or share is frogs in tempura, spinach and garlic milk mousse (£56).

Where to stay

The 4-star Hotel Marmont is perfectly situated on Rue du Prince in a historical building with modern comfort and style. (Classic Double Room from £182 a night.)

Hotel Marmont bar-restaurant

This boutique hotel’s inviting bar-restaurant is a fashionable hangout with bold décor.

You may also like:

• A tour of Geneva with a sweet twist
  
• Two day trips from Geneva

Getting to Geneva

Visit myswitzerland.com to research and plan your trip. SWISS (Swiss International Air Lines) has 160 weekly flights from UK airports. Go to swiss.com.

The Geneva Transport Card is free for hotel guests and can be downloaded digitally before your arrival. The card gives unlimited free access to Geneva’s public transport network UNIRESO: buses (TPG), trains (CFF), and boats (Mouettes genevoises). Geneva Airport is just a seven-minute train ride away from the city centre.

Geneva red water taxi © B.Watts

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