What’s The Deal With “Spicule” Skincare & Can It Replace Microneedling?
If it feels like a new skincare buzzword drops every week, you’d be right. As a beauty editor, I generally view most new ‘wonder-ingredients’ with a fair amount of skepticism, but when spicule skincare first caught my attention, it made me sit up and take note. Without subjecting you to a chemistry lesson, spicules are microscopic, needle-like structures derived from natural marine or plant sponges. It might not sound like something you’d want in your skincare routine, but when applied to the skin, these tiny needles create temporary micro-injuries that stimulate collagen and elastin production — the proteins responsible for keeping skin supple and strong. What are spicules in skincare? Spicules also help to minimize the appearance of large pores, fade pigmentation and acne scars, and leave skin even-textured and glowing. That’s not all. Research shows the micro-injuries that spicules create can help boost the delivery of skincare actives like hydrating hyaluronic acid, skin-strengthening peptides, or exosomes (essentially tiny particles that boost skin repair) by up to 60 times. On paper, this does sound a lot like microneedling. I’m already a big fan of professional microneedling treatments thanks to how smooth, glowy, and supple my skin looks and feels afterwards, so I was keen to find out how home-use spicule skincare really measures up. But it turns out spicules aren’t exactly new science. How do spicules work in skincare? Dr. Brendan Khong, founder and medical director at Dr. BK Aesthetics Clinic, says that professional spicule-based facial treatments have been around for a while. “They’ve been used in K-beauty for over a decade, and some clinics in the US started offering them around five years ago,” he tells me. Dr. Khong is quick to point out that spicules in skincare don’t work in quite the same way as microneedling or professional treatments, though — the main difference being the shallower depth that the spicules can penetrate the skin. What’s the difference between microneedling and spicule-infused skincare? “Traditional microneedling with a motorised device can penetrate up to 2mm and reach into the mid or deep dermis,” says Dr. Khong. He adds, “This triggers robust collagen production that can significantly improve scarring, skin laxity, and volume loss.” On the other hand, Dr. Khong says that spicules work at a more superficial level on the epidermis — the outermost layer of the skin. “Once applied to the face in serum form, they usually drop out of the skin after about 24 hours,” says Dr. Khong. “This process shortens the skin’s turnover cycle, enhancing skin texture, quality, and boosting skin elasticity.” It also enhances the effectiveness of any other active ingredients you apply on top. Spicule clinical facials, which use a much more concentrated spicule formula than over-the-counter skincare, can achieve similar results to microneedling. Spicule facialist and SQT director Ashley Wady, explains the difference: “Microneedling uses mechanical needles to create uniform channels in the skin, whereas clinical spicule treatments deliver thousands or millions of microscopic ‘natural needles’ all over,” she says. “Skin is generally stimulated for up to 72 hours after a clinical spicule session,” she explains, adding, “This results in strong improvements in texture, pigmentation, acne scarring, and overall skin quality, often with less downtime than microneedling — depending on the protocol used.” So is it possible to get similar results from home-use products with spicules? Wady thinks it’s important to manage expectations, and says it can take over 100 applications of home-use spicule skincare to get the same results as one clinical session. “Spicule skincare operates at a much lower intensity than clinical spicule treatments or microneedling, so this skincare’s designed for maintenance rather than correction,” she says. “It can’t replicate the depth of treatment achieved in-clinic.” That said, both experts agree spicule skincare is great for quickly refining your skin texture and tone, helping your other skincare actives work more effectively, and maintaining your glow — even more so if you use spicule products between microneedling appointments or clinical spicule facials. “Spicules [in skincare products] can also help to remove excess dead skin and dislodge the keratin and sebum buildup which contributes to blackheads,” Dr. Khong says. “When paired with [salicylic acid] products, which are designed to decongest blocked pores, spicules can actually help the acid penetrate further.” How do you use skincare products with spicules? It really sounds like spicules can do it all — but what’s the best way to incorporate them into your at-home skincare routine? Dr. Khong advises massaging spicule skincare into freshly cleansed, slightly damp skin: “Use a light ‘pressing’ motion until dry. This ensures the product spreads evenly,” he says. You
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If it feels like a new skincare buzzword drops every week, you’d be right. As a beauty editor, I generally view most new ‘wonder-ingredients’ with a fair amount of skepticism, but when spicule skincare first caught my attention, it made me sit up and take note.
Without subjecting you to a chemistry lesson, spicules are microscopic, needle-like structures derived from natural marine or plant sponges. It might not sound like something you’d want in your skincare routine, but when applied to the skin, these tiny needles create temporary micro-injuries that stimulate collagen and elastin production — the proteins responsible for keeping skin supple and strong.
What are spicules in skincare?
Spicules also help to minimize the appearance of large pores, fade pigmentation and acne scars, and leave skin even-textured and glowing. That’s not all. Research shows the micro-injuries that spicules create can help boost the delivery of skincare actives like hydrating hyaluronic acid, skin-strengthening peptides, or exosomes (essentially tiny particles that boost skin repair) by up to 60 times.
On paper, this does sound a lot like microneedling. I’m already a big fan of professional microneedling treatments thanks to how smooth, glowy, and supple my skin looks and feels afterwards, so I was keen to find out how home-use spicule skincare really measures up. But it turns out spicules aren’t exactly new science.
How do spicules work in skincare?
Dr. Brendan Khong, founder and medical director at Dr. BK Aesthetics Clinic, says that professional spicule-based facial treatments have been around for a while. “They’ve been used in K-beauty for over a decade, and some clinics in the US started offering them around five years ago,” he tells me.
Dr. Khong is quick to point out that spicules in skincare don’t work in quite the same way as microneedling or professional treatments, though — the main difference being the shallower depth that the spicules can penetrate the skin.
What’s the difference between microneedling and spicule-infused skincare?
“Traditional microneedling with a motorised device can penetrate up to 2mm and reach into the mid or deep dermis,” says Dr. Khong. He adds, “This triggers robust collagen production that can significantly improve scarring, skin laxity, and volume loss.” On the other hand, Dr. Khong says that spicules work at a more superficial level on the epidermis — the outermost layer of the skin. “Once applied to the face in serum form, they usually drop out of the skin after about 24 hours,” says Dr. Khong. “This process shortens the skin’s turnover cycle, enhancing skin texture, quality, and boosting skin elasticity.” It also enhances the effectiveness of any other active ingredients you apply on top.
Spicule clinical facials, which use a much more concentrated spicule formula than over-the-counter skincare, can achieve similar results to microneedling. Spicule facialist and SQT director Ashley Wady, explains the difference: “Microneedling uses mechanical needles to create uniform channels in the skin, whereas clinical spicule treatments deliver thousands or millions of microscopic ‘natural needles’ all over,” she says. “Skin is generally stimulated for up to 72 hours after a clinical spicule session,” she explains, adding, “This results in strong improvements in texture, pigmentation, acne scarring, and overall skin quality, often with less downtime than microneedling — depending on the protocol used.”
So is it possible to get similar results from home-use products with spicules? Wady thinks it’s important to manage expectations, and says it can take over 100 applications of home-use spicule skincare to get the same results as one clinical session. “Spicule skincare operates at a much lower intensity than clinical spicule treatments or microneedling, so this skincare’s designed for maintenance rather than correction,” she says. “It can’t replicate the depth of treatment achieved in-clinic.”
That said, both experts agree spicule skincare is great for quickly refining your skin texture and tone, helping your other skincare actives work more effectively, and maintaining your glow — even more so if you use spicule products between microneedling appointments or clinical spicule facials. “Spicules [in skincare products] can also help to remove excess dead skin and dislodge the keratin and sebum buildup which contributes to blackheads,” Dr. Khong says. “When paired with [salicylic acid] products, which are designed to decongest blocked pores, spicules can actually help the acid penetrate further.”
How do you use skincare products with spicules?
It really sounds like spicules can do it all — but what’s the best way to incorporate them into your at-home skincare routine? Dr. Khong advises massaging spicule skincare into freshly cleansed, slightly damp skin: “Use a light ‘pressing’ motion until dry. This ensures the product spreads evenly,” he says. You can then apply other active ingredients like hyaluronic acid, says Dr. Khong, but he suggests avoiding retinol, as together, they could aggravate the skin. If you use retinol products or high-strength alpha hydroxy acids in your skincare routine, like glycolic or lactic acids, Dr. Khong advises waiting 24 hours after using spicules to minimize the potential of irritation. He also drives home the importance of wearing a high-factor, broad-spectrum sunscreen every day.
Spicule skincare can be used in the morning or evening, and given that the spicules are microscopic, you can even apply makeup afterwards. Spicules aren’t suitable, though, if you have rosacea, eczema, or a compromised skin barrier. Likewise, if you have open skin, active pimples, or if you’ve just had facial hair removed via waxing or threading.
Best practices covered, which spicule skincare products should you try? I tested a handful of the latest launches, and these are worth investing in.
Medicube One Day Exosome Shot Pore Ampoule 2000, $23.90
This Korean serum streamlines your skincare routine by combining spicules with mild actives like salicylic acid — which helps break down the paste-like mix of oil and dead skin that can lead to breakouts and blackheads — and polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) for gentle exfoliation, alongside peptide-rich exosomes to increase collagen. It felt slightly tingly when I pressed it into my skin (but was still one of the gentlest products I tried), and it worked almost immediately. The next morning, my face felt smooth, soft, and looked a little more radiant. I couldn’t feel the spicules on my face the following day, either, so this felt very comfortable.
VT Reedleshot 100, $26
I like that there are various strengths to this serum — 100, 300, 700, and 1000 — with increasing spicule concentrations. The serum I tried was the lowest, and suitable for daily use, meaning you can ‘ladder’ the spicule intensity as your skin gets used to it — much like you would a retinol. I tried the lowest strength, which definitely helps quickly smooth bumpy areas of uneven skin tone over time. It’s also laced with hydrating hyaluronic acid and anti-inflammatory propolis, a waxy substance naturally produced by bees, so it felt plumping, too.
Erborian Ginseng Microshot Skin Refining Micro-Infused Intense Serum, $45
There are two strengths to choose from, and in Erborian’s clinical trials, both showed visible improvements in enlarged pores, uneven texture, and overall plumpness. The Starter serum contains around 150,000 spicules per application, and I couldn’t feel them at all. Once I stepped up to the Advanced serum, I could feel the spikiness immediately, and whenever I touched my face for the next day or so. Despite the peculiar sensation, my skin felt like it had had a really thorough exfoliation, and my bumpy skin texture appeared much more even after just one use.
Sarah Chapman Collagen Infusion Mask, $105 for 4
Start by applying a shot of spicule serum, then layer on the accompanying gel sheet mask infused with six types of collagen and the amino acid arginine. The idea is that the spicules help the mask’s actives penetrate more effectively while you wear it for 30 minutes. Afterward, my face felt firmer, fresher, and my skin appeared dewy. The spicules in this formula feel particularly prickly — more noticeable than in any of the others I tried — and while it’s on the pricey side, it works well as a pre-event treatment for quick, visible results.
Yepoda The Skinject Effect, $29
I felt the tingle immediately with this K-beauty favourite, which has heaps of 5-star reviews, though it was offset by a soothing blend of kimchi and hydrating rice water. I could still sense the plant-derived spicules in my skin — like tiny, spiky hairs — when I cleansed my face the next morning. It took around 24 hours for them to shed, which is typical for this kind of formula. But because spicules are so small and invisible to the naked eye, you won’t actually feel them coming out. The serum also layered well under my makeup, without affecting how smoothly it applied.
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